Some days are salad days. Your system is literally lusting for some greens. Generally when I’ve had too many night outs and take away days – I’ll whip myself a salad. It’s like I’m absolving myself of the excesses – even if for one meal! It’s winter though (Bangaloreans shiver at 16 degs, #truestory) and the idea of a cold salad gives me the heebie-jeebies. So my easy out is to make a warm one 🙂
Fun Asian Dining and quirky interiors might be all the rage these days, but in all honesty, Mamagoto was the true pioneer in India. Mamagoto literally means to ‘play with food’ in Japanese and that’s exactly what they set out to do. Experimental, Casual, and Affordable, this place tickles me in all the right spots. It all starts with walking through the big yellow door. Let’s go have a peek shall we?
Being a South Indian myself, I am wont to think that I don’t need to dine out in a restaurant that specializes in South Indian cuisine. Why, my mom could churn out the same things at home and I would probably like that better because my palate has developed a taste for it over the years. This deluded thought process however, has robbed me of one of the best fine dining experiences the city has to offer – till today. (Ok, it was three weeks ago, but let’s not get that specific!).
Dakshin has been rated time and again as one of the finest South Indian restaurants in the country (It just won the Times Food Award for the third time in a row this Sunday). Specializing in authentic coastal and regional specialties of the five Southern states (Telangana included) – it strives to recreate the splendor and diversity of a cuisine that is definitely not restricted to Idly-Vada-Sambhar. The restaurant has taken it up a notch and now indulges us with an array of forgotten dishes that it has painstakingly recreated. Presenting … the new Dakshin menu.
The setting is regal and definitely encompasses an old world charm that you can’t shake away easily. Think teak wood doors, brass handles, and gorgeous bronze statues and copper lamps. The ambience somehow goads you into minding your manners and sitting up straighter in your chair. One that indulges you with silverware, even as it coaxes your to eat with your hand.
The stylized temple door menu lists within its pages sections like ‘Sarvottam’ – signature classics, ‘Prarambham’ – starters, Region wise specialties (Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Tamil Nadu and Kerala), ‘Annam’ – accompaniments and ‘Madhuram’ – something to hit your sweet spot. If you need help navigating the menu – don’t hesitate to ask the waistaff for recommendations (including spice levels 😉 ). The traditionally dressed waistaff are polite and charming and ITC being ITC, will ensure the service is impeccable.
The amuse bouche in Dakshin comes in the form of a variety of papads that support the star – the Iyer’s trolley. Palm sized Adai’s (lentil and rice pancakes) in different flavours and grains are masterfully paired with coconut, mint, red chilli and dal chutney’s. The Mokkajona Vada (deep fried sweet corn and rice dumplings) was a new addition to the trolley and made for a nice nibble before the feast that followed. A couple of sips of the Muneer (tender coconut, khus and jaggery concoction) to whet our appetite and we were ready.
Out of the three chicken starters I tried, the one that literally blew my mind was the Mirupakayi Kodi (Chilli Chicken). The so-called Andhra Chilli Chicken in restaurants across the city, are a just imposters next to this spring bird. Marinated and slow cooked with the dried Guntur Chilies from Andhra – you can literally feel smoke coming out of your ears. Definitely not for the faint-hearted! (I have Andhra and Karnataka genes, so I don’t count)! A milder version of this, can be found in the Chicken legs cooked in a green chilly masala. If there was any debate on which chilly is hotter – this day resolved it for me! The Kozhi Roast (Slow roast spring chicken with chef’s special masala) is a less spicy alternative and quite the crowd pleaser. The Mutton Sukka, a dry preparation of lamb morsels cooked with black pepper, cumin and fresh coriander leaves is a favorite in tiny bars across the south. Thankfully you can eat it on a silver plate in Dakshin, instead of a beaten up steel one on NH4.
The mains comprised of curries both vegetarian and non-vegetarian served with Appams or the more interesting Ragi (finger millet) Dosa. The foot long dosa is made paper style and there’s some nostalgia in eating the same for me. (Old Bangaloreans will recall Dasprakash on Infantry Road). The Baine Barthad (sweet and sour preparation of aubergines and onions) is one of the must try’s from the Karnataka section. The Massopu Saru (garlic flavoured curry with mixed greens and lentils) reminded me of the Soppu Saru that my mom makes at home. And this one was just divine. Ask for some hot ghee and pour it over the Saru to unlock some more delicious flavours and aromas.
We tried the Kootu Saru (Curry of mixed vegetables cooked in a coconut, lentil gravy tempered with garlic) and a Kalasu Koora (Mix vegetables curry of green capsicum, string beans, black eyed beans and shallots) and the vegetarians will appreciate the how beautifully the different flavours all tie in.
The Kozhi Kurma (tender chicken simmered in poppy seeds with coconut paste) and the Araicha Attu Curry (traditional lamb curry flavoured with a blend of hand pounded spices) were faultless. The lamb was fall off the bone tender and the silky curry was perfect to mop up with the appams.
For dessert we tried the extremely rich Aadikkumayam. A halwa made out of ground moong dal, urad dal and rice. What makes it so decadent is the measure for measure of ghee (clarified butter) that the mixture is slowly cooked in to achieve that rich taste. It might not look like much, but one spoonful and you know this was something only the uber wealthy could afford in days of yore!
Dakshin does a fabulous job of showcasing a cuisine that probably is not as loud and popular as its North Indian counterpart, but is definitely every ounce as complex. There are times when I groan about how I can’t replicate my grandmom’s Buss Saaru (greens and lentil curry) because I didn’t bother to take the recipe down from her. So I immensely respect the effort and diligence that Dakshin has shown to curate and replicate the beautiful cuisine of the South. Truly a century in the making…
DAKSHIN
ITC Windsor, ‘Windsor Square’,
25 Golf Course Road, Bangalore 560052.
Ph: +91 80 2226 9898
Parking: Valet || Cost: Rs.3500/++ for a meal for two.
Missy baba, Tip-top, Abli, Bleddy Buggers, Dekchis, Blessed thing, Suzies – If all this sounds like mumbo-jumbo to you, you probably didn’t have cool Anglo-Indian friends and neighbors like I did! Growing up in the Cantonment area of Bangalore, I was exposed to more than my share of ‘my girl, ‘junglee’ and ‘what men (man)?’ than I care to remember. But what it also did, was expose my palate to the wonder that is Mutton Ball Curry, Coconut rice, Railway cutlets, Bobo Curry, Kedgeree and Keema Puffs. I’m not ashamed to say that I sat close to Melanie Lushington during junior class, so that I could share her tiffin! So it is with some nostalgia that I welcome the Hobson Jobson Festival at Monkey Bar. A tribute to all things Anglo-Indian, but with the customary monkey-business thrown in!
The kitchens at the Hilton are buzzing with creativity. Every time I’ve dined there, there has been something that’s always caught my eye and my imagination. Few restaurants serve food with as much panache as the Ministry of Food. Part of the credit definitely goes to Chef Anirban Dasgupta, who seems to take pride in turning the ordinary into something extraordinary. A Street Food Fest centered around an Asian theme (including the Indian subcontinent) served as a perfect backdrop to showcase his craft. Weekday lunches are a good excuse for some theatrics, no?
My favourite festival at my favourite restaurant in Bangalore is back! Aquafest at the Karavalli started 24 years ago and has become an event to look forward to every year. A seafood lover is assured of a sublime experience till the end of this month! Karavalli (the land by the sea) has distilled the best cuisine secrets from the bunts of Mangalore, the Kodavas, the Malayalees, and the Goan Portugese to bring them under one roof. And Aquafest is the crown jewel, where twenty new Sea food preparations with as many seafood varieties, will be dished out from the kitchen as well as the ‘West Coast Grills Station’. And for those who love their classics, the Karavalli Signature Collection is also part of the festival.
I get up on Saturdays and have these grand plans of elaborate four course meals that I am going ruffle up complete with menu tags and napkin rings. Unfortunately there has not been a day in the past five years that this ‘plan’ has materialized. A lesser mortal would have been aghast at the failure and made amends as soon as the realization struck. But I’m made of stronger fiber and clearly shake it off and move on with another quick meal Saturday.
Sunday brunches are sure shot ways of letting all your diet plans go down the drain, or in this case go down a flute of champagne. Over indulgence aside, the sheer variety of cuisines laid out like a smorgasbord of sin is enough to send my head reeling. And with zero will power when it comes to the amount of food I consume – I’m walking on dangerous territory. So getting to HIGH Ultra Lounge for their Sunday Brunch was guided by two important aspects – a. They focus on just Asian fare which is definitely lighter than our ghee laden kormas and b. The absolutely fabulous cocktails their main man Guru dishes out. What’s a Sunday brunch without some tipple eh?
The FoodPorn Diaries 