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Hot Rock Grills @ Dublin (ITC Windsor, Bangalore)

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There’s something about the sizzle of a grill that brings out the caveman/ cave women in us. The thrill to see something cooking on a hot rock versus a modern day oven is a primitive urge I can’t explain. There are umpteen theories about why this style of cooking results in the most luscious grills. The ones that makes the most sense to me are A. the ability of the stone to retain and distribute heat evenly and B. the retention of moisture and flavor in the food while preventing flare-ups caused in regular grills. Now, not all of us have the privilege of owning hot stones (generally made of volcanic rock) but Dublin at the ITC Windsor brings the excitement of cooking on a hot stone right to our plate, with the Hot Rock Grills festival. The Irish pub comes alive with a variety of sizzlers crafted by Executive Chef Uchit Vohra giving diners an option of healthy, oil free cuisine made from a selection of meats and seafood. Presented on preheated “Rocks” served with an array of rubs and sauces, it’s a festival designed to delight your inner grill monster.
We tried their offering this Saturday and (I’ll say it even before I finish the post) came away absolutely delighted. There are many restaurants these days that focus on the frills and thrills rather than the food and eventually lose their regular patrons. Dublin need not worry – their commitment to make food the hero, will always hold them in good stead.

We started with a couple of cocktails (nothing like alcohol to take the edge off driving across the city!). We gave the bartender our choice of alcohol and let him come up with something creative for us. In all honesty, this is something I never do – but the staff was so courteous and in control that we trusted them to delight us. What came in was a lovely pineapple and gin based concoction with the faintest hint of cardamom – light, sweet and refreshing. The vodka and pomegranate cocktail was the spunkier of the two and I shamelessly helped myself to a couple of swings from my friends drink. The prettiest one of the lot was unfortunately a mocktail and had peaches, sweet lime and blue curacao. Maybe next time I’ll just ask them to add some white rum to it and act like I’m chilling on a beach 🙂Dublin being a pub, served us some bar snacks along with our drinks and I resisted from eating too much of the spiced peas, because I wanted to do the Hot rock menu justice.
Four main courses for four of the ladies on the table. (There was a tussle for who gets to order the Tiger Prawns and guess who won? – ME 🙂 . The sole vegetarian offering is an exciting Blue Cheese stuffed Polenta steak, but all of us being carnivores conveniently ignored it. When you look at the menu, what you see is classic combinations that you know will hit the spot.
For example, the Lamb Chops were marinated with garlic and rosemary and served with a red wine jus. Match made in heaven? For sure. A mint and mango relish and potato wedges were the accompaniments and they all seamlessly collaborated to present a wonderful meal for the diner. The meat comes sizzling on the hot rock and the aromas will leave your appetite roaring even before the platter hits the table. The restaurant has thoughtfully placed the hot rocks in a ceramic platter so that no untoward ‘ouch I burnt my hand’ incidents occur. (For those who like to test the waters themselves – don’t. Just take my word that the Hot Rocks are, well…hot!).
The Chicken is generally the recipient of the least love when it comes to grilling, because it is such an insipid meat and also extremely easy to overcook, leaving it tough and stringy. However when treated right, it can transform into a marvelously satisfying meal and that is what the Jerk spiced Chicken with candied garlic mash (oooh…) and grilled vegetables was. Oh, they served the mash with some pan-gravy and all I could think of was Christmas!

My best friend is a sucker for good fish and pesto, in no particular order. So when she saw Pesto spiced Black King Fish on the menu, her heart did a double take. (By the way, I think its super cool that they serve Kingfish and not Tuna or Salmon or God forbid, Basa, which seems to be the staple fish of choice in most restaurants these days). Two perfectly cooked, generous filets of kingfish lay content on the hot stone. The sides included a Shitake mushroom reduction (to die for!!) and a leafy house salad. If you are a fish lover, definitely order this. You have my word.

And now for the grand finale – Peri Peri rubbed Tiger Prawns! (Well, they did get all the dishes in at once, but I reserved judgment on this for the end). Let’s first consider their size. The ONLY place in Bangalore that did justice to the word ‘Tiger’ Prawns. Every other restaurant that has offered me a tiger prawn can now rename their dishes to ‘wannabe’ Tiger Prawns! Each of these beauties (and there are two to a plate) was the size of my fist! Size – full marks. Now let’s get down to the cooking bit. When you grill something this size which has a tendency to curl up, you better know what you are doing. Adding another complex variable to the equation, is the fact that the prawn will continue to cook on the Hot Rock even after the chef has completed his work in the kitchen. So I give Chef Uchit and team full marks for how perfectly these were cooked. Each bite had a wonderful peri-peri hit and the knife cut through the prawn like a ripe apple – firm to the touch but juicy and soft to the bite. Divine. The raw mango chutney was an inspired seasonal accompaniment. The parmesan fries were interesting but I would have preferred something much creamier and softer to accompany the succulent prawns. Buttery Jacket Potatoes or Creamy Polenta? But don’t let my pickiness distract you from ordering this one…it’s a winner through and through.


After such a sublime main course, I actually didn’t want to sully my mouth with any dessert. (I know, it’s sacrilegious to ignore dessert). So we did order three and decide to share amongst us. I have exacting standards for Tiramisu and though this one was lovely, it still failed in the ratio of coffee-soaked ladyfingers to mascarpone. Layer people, layer. (Ok, I admit my tiramisu OCD is going to earn me no favors in Bangalore restaurants).  The other two desserts were absolutely gorgeous and decadent. The Rum Chocolate Mousse was large enough for two to share and was so rich that a couple of bites could leave you satiated. If you are on a diet, this could be your diet Armageddon. My favorite dessert for the day was the Caramel Custard. I know it’s home-style and too simple to be on a restaurant menu, but how many get it right? Rich caramel top glistening and adorned with candied nuts complimented by a cheery cream custard lying in a pool of liquid gold. Loved this one.
The festival is on till the 31st of May at Dublin for dinner only. But grill lovers can rejoice, because post May, it will move to the Raj Pavilion and you still get to enjoy the Hot Rock experience. *Still lusting after those prawns…*
DUBLIN
ITC Windsor,
‘Windsor Square’,
25 Golf Course Road,
Bangalore – 560052.
#1, Residency Road,
Bangalore – 560025.
Ph: 080 2226 9898
Parking: Valet available
Cost: Rs.900 – 1300/-++ for the special grills

Terrariums and other Surprises @ Ottimo (ITC Gardenia, Bangalore)

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It looks like every five star hotel worth its salt, needs to have an Italian restaurant to cater to our new found love of Italian cuisine. You can’t blame them after all, the Indians have taken with gusto to pasta as if it were dal chawal! Ottimo (which means excellent in Italian) has steered away from the carb-heavy renditions of Italian cuisine and bravely presented a lighter fare with emphasis on nutrition and fresh ingredients. Chef Vittorio Grecco has also indulged his love for molecular gastronomy here and his experience in Michelin starred restaurants across Italy has helped him nudge us towards trying something which looks unfamiliar, but in the end is an excellent tribute to the flavors of Italy.
Ottimostands in place of the erstwhile West View Grill and has an air of relaxed luxury. The restaurant itself wraps around the main kitchen which displays a row of terrariums (Micro gardens within their own eco-system, sitting pretty within glass containers). While I am not personally a fan of velvet sofas (this one has a coat of arms of essential herbs!), I loved the beautiful pictures of plants and herbs shot by Magda Indigo that hung above it. The red tinted glasses offer a beautiful shot of color in the otherwise subdued theme. However, after sampling the dishes on offer, I was tempted to suggest that the restaurant needed to present a more light and airy atmosphere to go with Chef Greco’s beautifully plated dishes.

 We settled down comfortably with a glass of Fratelli wine and nibbled on olive focaccia to wait for the magic to unfold. Chef Greco handed over a platter of Ferrero Rocher to us. For a moment there, I was stumped – why were we starting with store bought chocolates?? His cheeky smile revealed his little ploy. This was one of the Aperitivo – Foie Gras Rocher. Inspired by the original, this had a hazelnut kernel ensconced by foie gras which then was wrapped in a sheet of chocolate rolled in more hazelnut. It was a perfect copy! I thought it was an interesting combination of flavors – both rich and decadent. However, in the tussle for lingering on the palate, the chocolate wins and it defeats the purpose of making the foie gras shine.


The second apertivo was so pretty, that I really didn’t want to eat it. The colors were absolutely ethereal and the beautiful pink flower echoed the blush on one side of the mini sphere. The Parmigiana di Melanzane was a deconstructed aubergine parmigiana – think aubergines, tomato sauce and parmesan. This is generally a hearty, robust dish perfect for large gatherings but Chef Greco has taken the elements of this northern Italian dish and distilled it into this perfect orb. I suggest sliding the entire orb into your mouth at once. The first surprise is that it is chilled and then when you bite into it you taste the parmesan shell and then the tomato sauce and finally the aubergine! What a lovely way to start the evening!

The third apertivo (not on the menu) was something that the chef was still experimenting with – a recipe from his mom. What arrived was a grey lollypop with white powder and little caviar-like eggs. Now let’s get fancy shall we? The gray lollypop was a rendition of a lamb dish. The white powder was olive oil – that was dehydrated so that it turned into a fine white powder that still retained the fruity taste of the oil. The caviar like eggs were actually balsamic vinegar that was transformed into a lovely jelly like consistency using basic molecular gastronomy! On the whole, the dish needed a little bit of work to ensure the lamb gelled well with the other elements, but if these are the kinds of experiments that the chef intends to bestow on his guests…I encourage him with aplomb!

For Antipasto we started off with a seafood dish. If I had tried just this the entire evening, it would have been sufficient to put him in the league of extra ordinary chefs! Capesante gratinate e sfilacci di seppie con crema di porri e zucca – Gratinated scallops and shredded cuttlefish with pumpkin and leek coulis. The joy in tasting perfectly cooked scallops can launch me into the stratosphere but the cuttlefish is what elevated this dish. The texture was like handmade tagliatellla! The sweetness of the pumpkin complemented the seafood perfectly and the slight pungent hit from the leek coulis rounded off the best dish of the evening for me! A sublime experience I will treasure for many days to come.

‘Art on a plate’ might be something everyone strives to perfect, but seldom nails. Morbidoni di patate e gorgonzola con pepperroni dolci e pomodori – This dish was an eye-catcher from the moment it arrived. A black platter literally painted with bell pepper and tomato coulis. On it resting gingerly, were five glistening potato and gorgonzola dumplings. Not only was it a pleasure to look at, it was an exercise in elevating the humble gnocci to more stimulating pastures. One of the best gnocci I have ever tasted, more so for the impeccable coulis that accompanied it.

The first course or the Primopiatto had us raving about Risotto con fungi selvaggi, scampi e cipollina croccante – a wild mushroom and shrimp risotto with crispy shallots. Again, I had no reason to complain because the texture and mouth-feel of the risotto was bang on, the wild mushrooms added a punchy earthy flavor to the dish and the sweet, crunchy shallots gave it just the right amount of pizazz. Oh, and the shrimp that accompanied it was pale pink and tender. I was beginning to like this man very much 🙂

What’s the difference between an “I” and an “O”? The next dish of Tortelloni di melanzane con salsa al pomodoro fresco e ricotta salata – taught me well. A tortell’I’ni is a ring shaped pasta stuffed with meat/ vegetables or cheese. A Tortell’o’ni is a much bigger version of the same. So ‘O’ definitely gives you more! Roasted aubergines cocooned in pasta, dusted with smoked ricotta and tossed in fresh tomatoes, this dish is for those craving their carbs but still having it sit lightly in their tummies.

The Second course began with Sfera di mozzarella di bufala e spaghetti in salsa la pomodoro – a large sphere of mozzarella sitting contentedly on a bed of tomato coulis. A fried swirl of parmesan spaghetti rested on it. We cut it open to find it stuffed with fresh tomatoes, basil and more parmesan spaghetti! I wouldn’t call this healthy being deep fried and all, but assuring you the kids will love it. Here’s a fun treatment to a classic dish that you won’t regret.

The final dish before we moved on to desserts, was Filetto di branzino in crosta al pistachio con caponatina di verdure – a pistachio encrusted sea bass served with a Sicilian style fresh vegetable caponata. Probably the only let down of the day. The pistachio crust was much too thick and coarse for the sea bass fillet and as a result overpowered the fish. The caponata was great but did not compliment the fish and I was sad to leave this unfinished. Well if the chef had got everything right it would have been very surreal anyway 😛

Dolce. Desserts. Two of them. What an absolute blast! We started with a mini dessert terrarium keeping with the theme of Ottimo. The Biancomangiare al caramello con perle al miele had a bed of set cream with a hint of wild mountain honey and caramel swirled in. On this were fashioned a garden of flowers, sand, rocks and even a toadstool. I loved the ingenuity of it all. It’s a joy to see a chef having fun with his work!

The next dessert was all drama and Chef Greco was there to supervise it’s unfolding. The menu actually said “drown in the seduction of decadent chocolate cake with a burst of tantalizing vanilla’ – Torta caprese con sopresa alla vaniglia. What arrived was again a large Chocolate ball sitting on a bed of chocolate sand. Innocent enough I thought, like an Easter egg. But then the magic started. A steady stream of hot chocolate was poured onto it, which caused the ball to collapse into itself. (Master chef déjà vu here!)  The insides revealed a mix of dark chocolate cake, white chocolate bits and vanilla ice cream. One bite and I was sold! It is a chocolate orgy no chocolate lover should miss.


Ottimo has pushed the envelope when it comes to fine dining Italian restaurants in Bangalore. It has found a niche place by offering traditional flavors with a quirky twist that still appeal to the majority. The ability to wow the diner with something new, yet not so alien that you wouldn’t order it, is definitely where Chef Greco’s 25 year experience in the field shows. You will definitely be paying a lot more than standard restaurants here, but that’s the premium a unique experience warrants. Gift yourself a meal here and wait to be pleasantly surprised.
OTTIMO
ITC Gardenia,
#1, Residency Road,
Bangalore – 560025.
Ph: 080 2211 9898
Parking: Valet available
Cost: Rs.5500/- ++ for a meal for two without alcohol
Timings: Open ONLY for Dinner.

I’m seeing double @ Monkey Bar (Indiranagar, Bangalore)

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I’m always wary of part two’s, especially if I am dearly in love with part one. Will it live up to its predecessor? Will it continue to hold my attention? Will it be same-same but also different? Sigh…the suspense can wreak havoc with my system. Who’s not worried about Ben Affleck reprising Cristian Bale’s role as the Dark Knight?? (Oh wait, we’re not having that conversation). Let’s rewind to ‘the suspense can wreak havoc with my system’ and apply the feeling to the opening of the new Monkey Bar in Indiranagar. Overreacting? Hell no! Let’s get down to business shall we… monkey business!
I went for their launch party where they gave us hard hats with the Monkey Bar logo on it *clap clap*. Then I went again and again and again, till finally, after a month of its opening, I can find my bearings and be objective about it. I’ve heard people gushing that ‘two’s better than one’ and ‘more the merrier’ but unless you’re in a fantasy playing in your own head with identical twins, I’ve always doubted it could be that good in real life. So what’s new, what’s old and what’s same-same about the new contender for the post of ‘my favorite bar in town? 

Location: The New Monkey is situated in the mecca of all chic hang-abouts (patent – FPD) in town – 12th Main Indiranagar. The Old Monkey was located in equally chic Wood Street in the center of town. NM – 1; OM – 1
Space: The New Monkey has a lot more space to monkey around. When the party gets started, New Monkey can accommodate more crazies than old Monkey. With a mezzanine floor that partly overlooks the floor below, people watching got a lot more fun. (IF, I can manage to climb up the spiral stairway without falling on my face when I’m five maanga’s down!). Oh wait, the old monkey had a basement – that counts as space, right? NM – 1; OM – 0.
Decor: New Monkey and Old Monkey seem to share the same taste for exposed brick walls, lots of natural light, rustic tables, old scooters, cool posters and blackboard art. New Monkey has a Game of Thrones poster that I want to steal. Old Monkey has a poster of Gollum I want to steal. NM – 1, OM – 1.
Game On: New Monkey and Old Monkey apparently love to play Foosball and Pool. Who would have thunk? I personally play drinking games and would love for both to set up a Beer Pong table. NM – 1, OM – 1.
Parking: New Monkey has someone to come park your car for you. Old Monkey didn’t care if I left my car in the middle of the road to be towed away by cops. Or worse, to be yelled at by the old lady in the parallel road for parking an inch into her driveway. NM – 1, OM – 0.
Staff: Old Monkey wins, hands down. I know those guys by first name for chrissake! Plus their crowd handling and shot pushing skills are epic. New Monkey, maybe in six months, darling. NM – 0, OM – 1.
First Love Bias: Ahem…Old Monkey gets this. We’ve been tight for over a year. Old Monkey feels like Old Bangalore! Ok, I know that’s unfair BUT that’s why it’s called a bias! Kapish? NM – 0, OM – 1.
Food and Drink: I’ve tried almost the whole menu at Old Monkey and pretty much the hot new stuff at New Monkey. So I’ll give you glimpse of the new menu, cause I know this will take forever otherwise. Deal? 

Ok, I cheated and got a Maanga. Sue me. But they have a choice of Absolut or Grey Goose with it in NM. So it’s kinda new but same-same. If you got more money and have a taste for the finer things in life and all that jazz, go ahead and order the expensive liquor.

I ordered the Ginger Rogers, because of what it was served in. (Yes, I’m shallow like that). A coconut shaped ceramic pot held a refreshing concoction of Gin, ginger Ale and peach syrup. With my new found love for gin (is that an upgrade from Vodka or a downgrade?), I found this drink perfect for a sunny afternoon. My sister, the teetotaler (yes, I know it’s an abomination, but we love her nevertheless) ordered for a Virgin Mojito. The new offerings include a Red Riding Wood – Vodka, Fresh Plum, Passion fruit, apple juice and Wild Leaf– Vodka, Lime Leaves, Passion Fruit and fresh orange. I’ve also heard horror stories of a drink called the Seven Kingdoms (apparently slated to be the mother of all Long Island Teas) – if someone has been brave enough to try it, I want all the juicy deets. Thanks much.  

I only ordered the Veg and Cheese Wantons for you guys – the vegetarian readers of my blog. (Sometimes I wonder if there are any? :P). It was way better than the rest of the sorry excuses for veg-wantons you guys get in Chindian or Indinese restuarants in town. So yes, please order it the next time you’re here.
The one that caught my fancy however, was the Crab Rangoon. Chinatown in New York had me on my knees for these babies and I don’t know anyone else in Bangalore who makes them. So imagine my unbridled joy at biting into a perfect little parcel of crabmeat and cream cheese with scallions. (This was at the launch). I remember asking someone how they can afford to serve so much crab meat (even if it was imitation crab meat), for such a reasonable price? Unfortunately, every single time I’ve gone back, the crab meat has been waning like the moon and being replaced by more of the cream cheese. So I’ll still order it, but maybe just after the new moon when the crabs are their fullest 😛

I saw the Goan Chorizo Pao and could think no further. First of all, I love the pao that Monkey Bar freshly bakes. And secondly, the tangy-earthy-spicy chourico has been on my lust list ever since I was introduced to it a decade ago. This version was light on the use of goan vinegar but extremely tasty nevertheless. The pao is slightly larger than my small palms, so if you are not dining alone, you may want to preempt the mad scramble for it and just order two.

For the sake of avoiding long explanations, let’s just call the Pierogi the Polish version of a pan-fried momo. The Chicken, jalepeno and celery one trumped the pork-mince Pierogi. I was as amazed as any honest pork lover! They generally serve the Pierogi with a sour cream dip which I found to be a rather dull accompaniment. So we decided to tread where angels…*choke, gasp, splutter, maanga , water, gasp, gasp, tears, holy-***king-crap, kill me, water, water, aaaah*. Yes, I had the Death Sauce with it! Why? Because i’m at monkey and somehow all semblance of normal behavior leaves me after a while!

At some point I remember one of us considering the Gastro Burger and the Seafood Sliders, (both of which are exceptional by the way – I’ve tried them on an earlier occasion) but today we had a rather porky bent of mind and settled for the BBQ shredded Pork Sloppy Joe and the Pork Belly Sliders. The Pork belly at LikeThatOnly was probably my husband’s one true love. Now that LTO has downed its shutters, I have reclaimed that position. Oh wait, there’s still football…Drat! So I ordered this one to test its capacity for destruction. Succulent twice cooked Pork Belly, crispy and soft at the same time – served with grilled scallions, basil and chilli mayo. The Asian twist to the Pork belly is the only way I like it and basil provides the hint of freshness that tricks you into forgetting that you are essentially eating layers of pure fat. This one is a killer!

Who remembers the Sloppy Joe from Casa Piccola? Well this one, apart from being sloppy, has no semblance to the ham and cheese version of days gone by.  Instead, what you get is a grown up version of BBQ flavored shredded pork served with coleslaw, fresh jalapenos, onions, peppers and lettuce. All of this trying desperately to contain themselves in a brioche bun! They served this with sweet potato crisps with celery salt (how fancy!). A mess to eat, but boy, did I enjoy licking my fingers after this meal! A very small grouse – lose the sweet potato crisps and give me some sweet potato chips! I know it’s a calorie bomb, but it’s my waistline at risk and I’m down with that. 
I never have time to eat desserts at Monkey. We come, we eat, we drink, we sing (off-key) to the DJ’s songs and suddenly it’s time to leave. Then someone gets the bright idea to order shots and it’s all downhill from there. Complicated much. Luckily for me, and you – it was in the middle of the afternoon so I resolved to avoid the shots and order dessert instead.

If you ever thought a Lemon Cake was the most prosaic sounding thing on the menu, think again! Vanilla lemon syrup soaked pound cake topped with lemon curd served with seasonal fruit. In my case, because this is May and because the EU went bonkers and rejected them – I was served Alphonso Mangoes with it. DIVINE. My sisters and I literally stabbed each other with a fork to get to the last bite. I’ve now ordered it a couple a times since the last visit and it’s been holding New Monkey’s flag pretty high.

Now the Chocolate Pot De Crème with Salted Caramel, sounds anything but prosaic. It comes in a jar with a lid, which makes the experience of eating it all the more fun. More fun because I can shut the lid whenever I don’t feeling like sharing (the lemon cake needs one!). Gooey, rich Chocolate Mousse and salted caramel topped with caramel popcorn. The mousse is luscious but what elevates it, is the friggin popcorn! How they managed to get the caramel so damn right is beyond me. (Please tell the pastry chef I’ll buy the movie tickets, if he/she gets me a bucket of that amazing caramel popcorn!).


Scores for Food and Drink? Old Monkey consistently delivers and it was one of the pioneers of making the commonplace cool. (Bheja Fry, Dabeli, Pandi Curry- Love.) New Monkey uses Old Monkey as a platform and adds more funky stuff, but still needs to be consistent with their output. But…New Monkey has the Lemon Cake. So NM – 1, OM – 1.
Go ahead tabulate the scores now. Yup, stumped me too. No, seriously – I double checked. Really, I triple checked! NM – 6, OM – 6. It’s a tie! (No, I didn’t engineer this. And No, I’m not secretly working for Monkey Bar :P).
So guess I’ll have to finally concede defeat and agree that two’s better than one in real life as well. But you know what really rocks my boat – a Trilogy. Where’s the next Monkey? 😀
MONKEY BAR
12thMain, (Diagonally opp. Apple of My I),
Indiranagar,
Bangalore.
Ph: +91 80 44114455
Parking: Valet available
Cost: Rs.1800/- ++ for a meal for two

 

Mango Mania @ Grand Mercure (Koramangala, Bangalore)

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It’s very hard to keep me away from Mangoes. Considering they make their hallowed appearance once a year and all the good ones are always exported – I always give them A-one priority on my list. So when Grand Mercure announced a Mango Festival (on till the 17th of May), where everything from drinks, appetizers, main course and dessert will be mango based, I was hard pressed to say yes. Considering the hotel is practically in my backyard, I even accepted a weekday invite. Anything for good mangoes I tell you!
A table under the stars was arranged for us (complete with organic mosquito repellent) and the blogger group got to work immediately. (By that I mean running around to find seats with the best lighting!). Drinks were ordered and we waited in anticipation of our first experience of the mango menu.

I ordered a Mango and Apricot Mojito and was pretty sure I made the best possible choice. The other options included a mango, rum and vanilla ice cream combo and the ever popular Aam Panna (non-alcoholic). The cocktail arrived and looked quite dashing under the lights, unfortunately it completely lacked punch. The apricot and mango pieces were floating around in the drink and it felt like they just poured in some alcohol and soda and called it a day. If they had just muddled the mango and apricot with some mint and got their flavor balance right – this drink could have rocked. For all my apprehension – the Aam Panna turned out to be great. Of course I requested for a shot of vodka on the side and tossed it into the drink. (Maybe they can offer this on the menu, yes?)

The Mango Caprese Salad is one of my favorite twists on the basic caprese salad. Come mango season and I pretty much do a mango, bocconcini and mint skewer for lazy lunches. So I was glad to see the chef dish out a beautifully plated version of the same. Plump slices of Alphonso mango served on a bed of rocket and lettuce accompanied by cherry tomatoes, sun dried tomatoes and a soft ball of bocconcini dressed with balsamic reduction – the salad was a hit.
I was looking forward to the Mini Mango Poppadums’. The vegetarian option included falafel, mango and tzatziki while the non-vegetarian option included smoked chicken and mango. Both poppadums’ were dressed with micro greens and extra virgin olive oil. I preferred the vegetarian falafel version to the chicken. Somehow the texture of the fried falafel complimented the soft mango slices a lot more than the soft chicken. We all thought the salad as well as the poppadums’ could have used a little more seasoning to bring alive the flavors.

Raw mangoes – tangy, crunchy and a whole lot of fun. Asian cooking uses this in a lot of salads including the famous ‘Thai raw mango and papaya salad’ and the next offering seemed to take inspiration from there. We were served a Shrimp and Raw Mango salad with a soy chilli dressing. The shrimp was perfectly cooked and the salad was beautifully plated, but…..the dressing was hardly discernable. I requested for some extra dressing on the side and that seemed to do the trick. The dressing itself was a fabulous soy, peanut paste and chilli combination and I wondered why the chef had been miserly with it in the first place.
The salads instead of quelling our hunger just compounded it fourfold and we were rapacious by the time main course arrived. My first choice was the Grilled fish but since there were seven of us and six main courses on offer – we diligently ordered one of each, after promising to share!

The Grilled Fish with raw mango parsley piccada, roast baby potatoes and bean sprouts accompanied by mango tenders and coconut salsa sounded like a mouthful. I expected a veritable party on my plate but got something a lot less boisterous. The elements were all there – honestly, but when I took a bite, it didn’t seem to add up. So I checked (yes, I know it sounds obsessive!). Grilled Fish – one large fillet of basa – Check. Raw Mango Parsley piccada – green paste smeared on the fish – check. Roast Baby Potato – placed under fish – check. Bean sprouts – sprinkled over the fish – check. Mango Tenders and Coconut Salsa – in a circle around the fish – check. So in all fairness, the dish was complete but why didn’t I feel the magic? We then realized, the culprit was not in the addition but the deletion. By eliminating the sprouts (which honestly didn’t do ANYTHING for this dish), we were able to attain perfection. Quick rescue accomplished – check!
The Chicken breast stuffed with raw mango and mushrooms served with sweet potato mash and veggies in jus was a very well executed dish. The elements all came together and the portions were just right. If you want to play safe with just a hint of mango – this could be the dish for you.
The final non-vegetarian option, the Tenderloin steak with rock salt,olive oil baked potatoes, sautéed beans and mango jus sounded and looked divine. Unfortunately we could not even find a trace of the mango flavor and just for that, I would discount the dish.
The surprise package that night was the vegetarian main courses. The Thai Green vegetable curry with Mangoes was just what the doctor ordered on a rainy day. The spicy, tangy creamy curry is every spiceophiles (I’m sure the word exists) dream come true! Served with jasmine rice – it’s addictive and satisfying.
 My eyes glazed over when I read about the Spinach, ricotta and Raw Mango Ravioliserved with mesclun greens in mango sauce. (*Mesclun – assorted small salad greens, originated in Provence). This was pure heaven on a plate. The mélange of the spinach, ricotta and the mango sauce is something I will definitely try to replicate at home! What concerned me however, was the portion size. Three ravioli is not what I would count as substantial for a main course. (Also at Rs.400/-++, it felt pricey). The chef assured us that this was tasting portions and if you ordered it off the menu you would be served five ravioli and this assuaged our skepticism. If what he said holds true – you must order this one. It won’t disappoint.

The Balsamic grilled Vegetables with Parmesan Mango Polenta and Pomegranate glaze was definitely a looker. But what set it apart was the beautifully cooked parmesan and mango polenta. I have always called Polenta the Mexican cousin of our ubiquitous Upma. Like an upma – you can either get it right or get it extremely, terribly wrong. This one was all things wonderful – soft, creamy, airy, buttery and tasty. And the mango, oh the mango that weaved itself into the polenta – just delightful with every bite. This got a repeat order and we wanted more at the end of it.

The day had to end with desserts. The Thai inspired Kaffir lime leaf crepe stuffed with fresh mangoes was the chef’s recommendation. The kaffir lime sauce is a great partner to the fresh mangoes but I would definitely put this in the ‘experimental taste bucket’. Some will like it and others will hate it. So go with your gut.
 The Passion fruit and Mango Tart is a classic combination but with the addition of rosemary the chef aimed to bring something new. I liked it, yes, but wished the pastry was baked just a little more to get rid of the doughy feeling.
Finally we ended up with the Mango Panacotta with the Basil Raspberry Coulis. I find Panacottas boring – it’s like custard set with gelatin and hardly anyone makes it right. It’s either gloopy or hard and not wobbly which negates it being called a panacotta. This went into the gloopy bucket. But it tasted really good with the basil raspberry coulis and the pieces of fresh mango, that I forgave its identity crisis.
A clever child at the table asked the chef if she could get a plate of freshly sliced mangoes. ‘That would be all’, she decreed, and they could not resist her sweet request. The rest of us of course settled for the other desserts, though secretly wishing for a plate of the juicy mangoes ourselves!
Verdict – I don’t think anyone is doing anything adventurous with mangoes this season, so Grand Mercure deserves some praise for at least trying. Pairing fruit with savory dishes is quite a task and you can tell that they have put in a lot of effort to develop the special menu. The many disparate elements come together quite well on the plate and the salads and vegetarian main course can attest to that. And they do source a mean Alphonso Mango – so that gives them Brownie points in my book.
GRAND MERCURE
12thMain, 3rd Block,
Koramamgala,
Bangalore.
Ph: +91 80 4512 1212
Parking: Valet available
Cost: Rs.2500/- ++ for a meal for two for the special menu.

Comic Relief – Leaping Windows Cafe (Now Closed :( )

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If you manage to find it (Google maps included), I’d say pat yourself on the back. If it makes it any easier – Leaping Windows Cafe is on the road parallel to Indiranagar club (Ask the fruit vendor at the end of the road). Like all things Indiranagar, this is an old bungalow converted into a café. What it also uniquely is, is a comic book library to read your Tintins, Asterix and Calvin and Hobbes in peace. Of course, you pay 40 bucks an hour, but that’s small change. You walk past the reading den on the ground floor to the 1st Floor which has multiple seating options, all of which have bold comic paintings hanging on the whitewashed walls. We choose to sit outside as it was cool and it faces a canopy of trees, which always is a plus point for me. I plonk myself on the low cane chair/ settee and proceed to look at the menu. Standard breakfast options coupled with a section for Burgers/ pastas/ salads/ mains and quick bites (available post noon). A whole page dedicated to coffee and its variants including an exciting sounding Aztec coffee blended with vanilla ice cream. (Didn’t really try that because I’m not a java lover!).

I ordered the Masala Chai, the friend got a Chickoo Smoothie and I slipped lower into the sette and let the fan breeze lull me to a dull haze. The Masala chai arrived in a pretty striped mug and was bang on with flavours of cinnamon, cardamom and ginger. I could have easily had a couple of these that afternoon if I wasn’t ravenously hungry. The Chickoo smoothie was a bit of a confused candidate. I think it gave up halfway between a juice and a smoothie and settled into drink purgatory. Just a little bit more chickoo along with some yoghurt could have added the necessary bulk to give it the right mouth feel.
The order of Jalepeno and Corn Omelette arrived quickly and presented a pretty picture. The friend thought one slice of bread that accompanied it was bordering on being miserly, but I bought out the low-carb theory and that seemed to have quietened him down. Anyway, the omelette itself is made of three eggs and you end up feeling satiated without the extra slice of bread.


I ordered the French Toast with Pesto and Sausages, after a recent entry on Ruth’s blog. I tried to order something else, but pesto always hold a strange charm that I find hard to resist. It was great. The savory French toast was made with thick, soft slices of bread generously coated with pesto and grilled to a golden (green) brown. They cut up the sausage into diagonal fingers and placed them over the toast. No big shakes, but it made me happy. (This was a standard Venky’s / some generic brand chicken sausage – so don’t go expecting a world of fascinating flavors).

We took our time to eat this, mainly because our agenda for the day was to bitch our lives out. It helped that the staff didn’t care how long we sat there. So if you want to lounge around without being pestered to move/ order something – this is the place to be. Come 12:30 PM, we realized the rest of the menu apart from breakfast was up for grabs. A Classic Bruschetta and an Orange Glazed Chicken Salad was our way to stave off the calorific overload that was the week past – but maybe we needed to have read the menu with more care.
The Classic Bruschetta was a calorie bomb – thick slices of toasted bread, slathered with cooked tomato and garlic paste topped with a mound of cheese that melted all over itself and its neighbor. Now, in most situations I would be thrilled to find something like this (it tasted fantastic), but the dichotomy of the ‘classic’ bruschetta with what was presented haunted me a bit. Then there was the Orange Glazed Chicken Salad. This was healthier that the bruschetta but again didn’t live up to expectations. ‘Orange Marmalade dressing with smoked tomatoes, croutons, and crispy garlic and Parmesan shavings’. For starters, the chicken was overcooked and dry and the orange marmalade was more of a passing fancy than an actual glaze. Secondly, I wish they had tasted one of the orange segments before putting them in, because they were on their way to that unpalatable overripe, rotten stage. The salad leaves were crisp and the Parmesan shavings more than generous, but that didn’t compensate for messing up the prime ingredients.
Even after the fail of the salad, I would still recommend the place. The service was quick, unobtrusive and friendly. The ambiance just perfect if you need to read a book and lounge around and the masala chai, just the upper you need on a down day. Stay away from the exotic sounding stuff, order the staples and don’t get carried away by the menu descriptions. If you follow these instructions, you might just come away feeling relaxed. I left four hours after strolling into the place on a Saturday morning … counts for something right?


LEAPING WINDOWS CAFE
509, 3rd Cross, 9th Main,
2ndStage, HAL,
Indiranagar,
Bangalore.
Ph: +91 80 61344767
Parking: In the bylanes
Cost: Rs.800/- for a meal for two

Some Irish grub and Amritsari Fish @ Blimey! (1 MG Road Mall, Bangalore)

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If you’ve lived in Bangalore for the past year, chances are you have already heard of Blimey. Not the expression ‘Blimey!’ (I’m pretty sure no Irishman/women uses it these days) but Blimey the gastropub located at 1MG mall. They are pretty notorious for their packed to the kilt hilt Sunday brunches and the teeny boppers that frequent the place for sundowners. With the amazing view of Ulsoor lake from their terrace, coupled with some cool cocktails, Irish brews and grub – they have survived the one year mark. And that my friends, is an achievement in Bangalore, which has become ruthless in weeding out restaurants and pubs which don’t make the mark. So to celebrate their coming of age (yes, one is a good number), the gastropub has decided to update their menu with some cool new dishes. We went on a Monday to sample the old and the new and let you know what hits the spot. 

 
I tried to keep the focus on the food, but when offered a Dirty Martini (the best there is, claimed the mixologist) I was too weak to resist. My yardstick to measure martinis is the Bolar house martinis. (It’s a friends place, not a bar: P). They make a mean one and by that I mean it’s flawless. Gin and Vermouth, not some namby-pamby vodka and sugar syrup concoction. The one at Blimey was bang on – strong, dry and garnished with the customary three olives. The others ordered for Ginger martinis and were none the sober for it. 
A trio of veg platter arrived to keep my martini some company. The Sago alla Verde was a fancy term for a deep fried vegetable and sago ball. Irish? Definitely no. When I quickly glanced through the menu, I realized that though they have Irish food, they weave in other favorites to keep the crowd happy. So tonight was going to be a jugalbandi of Irish, Italian and Indian flavors and I hoped and prayed they get it right! The Cheesy Potato Log sounded Irish enough and had enough of both to nudge me to take another bite. If you break it down, its cheesy bread rolls and though tasty, I wouldn’t call it inspired. The Nutty Mushroom Tart on the other hand was perfect. A buttery, crumbly pastry shell which held a lovely mushroom, vegetable and nut filling and garnished with arugula. Maybe next time, I’ll ditch the trio and just get the one tart (Yes, it’s an innuendo. Sue me 😉 The Spinach and Corn Soup was green and creamy. I would say it was well executed but the flavor reminded me of Palak Paneer. Once the thought entered my mind, I couldn’t shake it off and hence the soup was pushed aside to make room for less offending appetizers.

What is a pub without Chicken Wings right? Blimey has its own version – an insanely spicy Peri Peri sauce. The smokey and piquant flavors will keep you coming back for more, but be warned that you need gallons of the cold stuff to get you back to normal. The Cajun spiced Calamari rings were too spice-coated for my taste, though I imagine a majority of the Bangalore population liking it because of the exact reason. The highlight for me was the ‘Heaps of Nachos a la Fruite de Marie’. Being a seafood lover, you can only imagine my delight at find perfectly cooked prawns, fish and calamari tossed with baked beans, sour cream and nachos. The salsa on the side gave the perfect kick to the already fantastic dish. This is going on my reorder list. 

We were served two salads – Ceaser Salad with a twist. The twist being the croutons were replaced with crisp Pita/ naan, there were crispy fried onions on top and there was a skewer of grilled chicken on the side. Did not work! Though the elements of the Ceaser salad were there – parmesan, romaine lettuce, eggs, lemon and olive oil – the grilled chicken skewers overshadowed the salad and reduced it to an accompaniment. Maybe if they just called it a Grilled Chicken Salad, I would have been more forgiving. Thankfully the Green Apple and Chicken Salad with a honey mustard dressing redeemed Ceasers confusion.

Mini Burgers have made their appearance in every pub in Bangalore. They are easy to eat and still give you the feeling of having something substantial. Besides they let a lady enjoy a burger without having to worry about her lipstick! So it’s only normal that Blimey would put them on the menu. We tried the Bombay Masala Burger (think fancy Vada Pav), the Chicken Burger (these were quite tasty) and finally the Shammi Sliders. The Hyderabadi on the table shot the Shammi down, afterall the adage ‘mommy makes it best’ is never questioned. But I had to agree with her and say this one didn’t pack a punch. The channa dal in the shammi felt slightly undercooked and that ruined the final package for me. 

So we’ve already established that Blimey serves non-Irish food as well. What we didn’t expect it to do, was get all regional about it! The Sri Lankan Beef Deluxe Sandwich was definitely something new. Tender beef cooked in Srilankan spices served in your choice of bread. You also get a side of spicy fries to complete the experience. The Amritsari fish made with Mahi Mahi is India’s answer to the more banal fish and chips. Whether it comes to movies or food, for us Indians somehow ‘More masala is always better’!
This one deserves a special mention. It’s not Irish, it’s not Indian, it’s not Italian. What it is, is a full English Breakfast on a thin crust Pizza. Think baked beans, a sunny side up egg, tomatoes and bacon! Once the novelty wears off, you will definitely appreciate the skill that goes into baking a pizza with an egg on top that still has a runny yolk! It’s the convenient way of having breakfast and it strangely tastes brilliant.

Let’s finally get on to some Irish grub, shall we? We had Boxty. These are Irish pancakes topped with peas and asparagus fricassee and baked with ementhal cheese. Blimey gave this a gourmet twist and went all layered and circular and fancy. I personally prefer mushy peas in my boxty but I still liked this one. The Mushroom and Spinach Lasagna is a cheese lovers delight and was beautifully executed. Just look at the number of layers!! If you are looking for something rich and comforting, both these dishes live up to the mark.

The Irish Lamb Stew was beautiful. Lamb shanks slow cooked with potatoes, celery, carrots and onions in a rich braising stock. I could easily picture this in some old pub in Ireland where the town’s residents congregated to watch a match and dug into their stew. Food does fuel the imagination! The Bangers and Mashwere bang on the buck. Three juicy Pork Sausages served with Onion gravy and mashed potatoes. On a day I’m nursing a hangover and want something to cure it – I’ll pick this one out of the lot.

The Bread Pudding is your ode to rustic, homestyle, feel good dessert. Blimey did a great job of keeping it authentic. My only grouse being the amount of custard they gave along with it. Generosity in this aspect will earn you brownie points, I promise. The rich Chocolate Cake topped with a layer of glossy ganache and dressed with one sugar coated maraschino cherry and strawberry was just to die for. Save space at the end of your meal for this one and you’ll go home a lot happier than you imagined. 
The new menu rolls out next week. Blimey will take care of your cravings for Irish grub as well as your inherent love for masala. They are like that only!
BLIMEY
Level 05, 1 MG Road Mall,
1/2 Swami Vivekananda Road,
Trinity Circle,
Bangalore – 560008.
Ph: 080 2208 6777
Parking: In the mall
Cost: Rs.1500/-++ for a meal for two without alcohol

 

Vietnamese Summer Rolls: Light and Fresh

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It’s 38°C! I’m almost tempted to break and egg on the pavement and see if it gets cooked! My house feels like a mini sauna and I have officially stopped wearing pants at home. (I wear cotton dresses – go wash your dirty brains :P). So it goes without saying that summer is here! Which is both a boon and a curse depending on which part of the world you live in. I, for instance live in a city that has salubrious climate for 80% of the year so any extremes in temperature is treated with great disdain. (Yes, Bangaloreans are spoilt that way!). Every year we just whine and crib till the first showers of April hit the sands and then we whine and crib that it’s monsoon already. This year is no different except that I learnt how to make some Vietnamese Summer Rolls. It’s fresh, light and all kinds of colorful. Just what summer should be? 
 
This recipe is more about getting your mise en place and rolling technique right. Once you master than, you can churn out a gazillion of these with a flick of the wrist. (Ok, as usual I’m exaggerating, but you get the drift no?). Also since it’s a fresh roll, its best prepared and served just in time to eat. It doesn’t lower the temperature or anything, but I assure you summer will be more bearable – at least while you’re eating it! 

 
Vietnamese Summer Rolls (with Shrimp)

Prep time: 20 mins
Cook time: 10 mins
Makes: 8 Full Rolls

What you need:

 
8 Rice Paper Spring Roll wrappers (I use Blue Diamond)
50 gms/ a handful of Rice Vermicelli, cooked (I use Mama)
200 gms Shrimp, cooked
1 small head of Romaine Lettuce (cut into strips)
1 small English Cucumber (cut into thin strips)
1 small Carrot (Cut into thin strips)
1 Small bunch Spring Onions (green stems, same length as carrots and cucumbers)
Fresh Herbs (Coriander/ Mint/ Asian basil/ Spearmint)
½ cup of Vietnamese Spring roll dipping sauce (I use a store bought variety)

What to do:

 For the Vermicelli: Soak in hot water for 5 minutes. Test to see if it is soft. It should still be elastic and springy. Immediately wash wish cold water to stop it from cooking any further. Roughly separate the strands and set aside. Cover with damp towel to prevent the vermicelli from drying out. 

For the Shrimp: Clean and poach the shrimp in salted water. It should take about 3 minutes to turn pink and curl up. Set aside. You can also add some lemongrass, fresh herbs and pepper to the water to flavor the shrimp. 

For the filling: Ensure your cucumber, carrot and green spring onion are chopped to the same length. Also ensure the strips are more or less the same width. Some people prefer to use the whole lettuce leaf, I prefer strips as it makes the final roll more visually appealing. 

For the Rice Paper: This is the tricky part. Some websites ask you to soak it in hot water for 5 mins and then lay it out to roll. Other websites ask you to place the dry paper on a board and pat it with water. I found this method from White on Rice Couple, the most reliable and easy.The chefs at Blue Ginger also use the same technique, so rest assured it’s top class. It involves taking a large bowl of water and soaking the paper part by part, while rotating it in a circle. (Think car steering wheel!). The goal is to get the paper wet and pliable but not sticky. It sounds complicated but the pictures do a great job of explaining it. (click here). It’s ok if you screw up with one or two sheets. Practice makes perfect.


To assemble:
1.    Take a large cutting board or clean slab and lay out the damp rice paper on it.
2.    At 1/3rd distance from the top lay out a bed of lettuce horizontally.
3.    Top with some rice vermicelli.
4.    Lay out 2 -3 sticks of carrot and cucumber.
5.    Top with some herbs then the cooked shrimp. Season.
6.    Now use the fold and tuck technique to make the roll. Flap over the edge and carefully tuck it in as you roll. (Think rolling a Cuban cigar)
7.    I cut the uneven edges off for a cleaner finish.
8.    You can cut the roll into mini bite sized (1 ½ inch) pieces like sushi or cut it diagonally into two pieces.
9.    Serve fresh with some dipping sauce. 

For more information on Summer Rolls you can read this article in the Guardian.   

Dining in Style – Riwaz @ The Ritz-Carlton (Bangalore)

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A New York style maven once said, ‘Style is a way of saying who you are, without having to speak’. In the matter of The Ritz-Carlton, Bangalore, luxury seeps through every pore of its being! From the awe inspiring driveway, to the elegant and intricate jaali work, to the splashes of gold and the fire and stone décor – you just can’t escape it. Riwaz their North-West Frontier cuisine restaurant envelopes itself in this richness while somehow managing to still keep the décor modern. Chef Ramandeep Kukreja heads the culinary team at the restaurant and is clearly passionate about the cuisine. While I felt this type of cuisine was done to death in all the ‘North Indian’ restaurants in Bangalore, I still could not turn down an invite to sample the new menu at Riwaz. (They make a conscious effort to come out with something new every six months.) Why, some of the recipes are sourced from the chef’s own family and that gave me the necessary incentive to accept a dinner invitation on a weekday.

The restaurant is located on the 4th floor of the building and offers you some lovely views of the lawn. The style is modern and classy and except for the urns at the entrance there is nothing else that screams North-West-Frontier province. The interesting thing about Riwaz is the open kitchen where you can actually watch the chefs in action. While this can be intimidating for some chefs, the Riwaz team looked completely at ease. I guess, practice makes perfect!
Adjoining the main dining area is an intimate Whiskey table and the wine enoteca. If this doesn’t give you enough privacy, you can even opt for the two private dining areas. Our party just chose to sit at the main restaurant, after all, four is already an intimate number of people!
We were greeted by the cheerful restaurant manager and led to our seats. I couldn’t help notice how impeccably everything was laid out. The sparkling and intricately designed silverware caught my eye and I was informed that it was specially designed for the hotel by La Cuppola. The plates themselves are a subtle mirror of the jaali design that seems to reflect itself throughout the hotel.
We were bought a hot towel to refresh ourselves while we placed an order for drinks. I stuck to a melon and basil mocktail, being a work night. A basket of freshly made crisps (ok papads) kept us company till the amuse bouche arrived. The besan papad was so addictive that a fellow diner literally moved the basket away. The amuse bouche was a modern representation of the dhai vada. The ring, made of deep fried dough would have been the perfect garnish, if only it was savory instead of sweet.
An assortment of starters was the order of the day because the restaurant was intent on us trying the new creations on the menu. A quick note – the Riwaz menu does not offer beef (I don’t know if that is a NWF cuisine peculiarity or a conscious decision by the restaurant to cater to a larger audience). Anyway, we could not complain because the vegetarian and the non-vegetarian selection has more than enough to keep the majority happy.



From top left – The Subz aur Gucci di Galoti was melt in the mouth, as is the nature of a galouti. Now I presume everyone knows the story of the aging toothless Nawab and his love for meat and how the Khansama invented the soft galouti to keep his job! This version made from seasonal vegetables and morels, aims to rival its non-vegetarian counterpart. I’m not a fan of galouti – the fact that it lacks the bite somehow makes it an insipid kebab for me. But for people who like the galouti, I can tell you that the execution of the dish was bang on. Oh, this is a good time to mention that the staff is extremely courteous but also very knowledgeable when it comes to the restaurant cuisine (I asked them a couple of tricky questions and they just rolled the answers off their tongues!) Simple pleasures!
The Sunehari Jinga was a Saffron and yoghurt marinated prawn, cooked in a tandoor. The combination of saffron and seafood is legendary and you can’t go wrong with this one. We were informed that the Seekh Kebab Khandahari was  part of a traditional ‘Pashtoon’ diet that originated by grilling skweres of meat mixed with local spices (think Anardana or Pomegranate seeds) on hot charcoal. The tangy flavor of the anardana definitely made this version of the seekh kebab memorable. The Turra Kebab was my favourite. Though the menu makes it sound like an innocent marinade of coriander and chillies – the final flavor was hot, smokey and piquant. Served with a really unique spiced hung curd dip, it was definitely worth its moniker – the crown or crest of a peshawari turban.


I snuck in some bites of the vegetarian starters so as to give you a fair idea of what to expect in that department as well. The Bharwan Tandoori Aloo was bang on when it came to the taste. Potatoes mixed with raisins and green peas flavored with caraway seeds. Where it falters was the potato casing – deep frying it to hold its shape and then sticking it in the tandoor just made it rubbery. We like different textures in our food, but this one was trying too hard. The Tandoori Malai Broccoli was never in a frontier menu, but if you understand that vegetables are given a secondary status in the north-west, the broccoli marinated with cheese, yoghurt and flavoured with cardamom atleast gives you a vegetarian option while being true to the cooking techniques and marinades of the North-west frontier. Special mention to the almost tempura like treatment of vegetables that was served as a side to the kebabs. Give me this in a larger portion with the hung curd dip and I will be a happy trooper.

 

For maincourse we started with the Masala Tawa Sabz and the Sindhi Aloo Bhindi. The tawa subz is essentially seasonal vegetables cooked with peppers and spiced with cloves, cumin and cardamom. The Sindhi Aloo Bhindi is probably something you will not find in restaurant menus. (I know Sindhi friends who closely guard their recipes!). Whether a Sindhi approved this or not, I sure did. The crunchy okra complimented the soft-on-the-inside, crisp-on-the-outside potato and the spices brought it all together. Even so, I couldn’t help shake off the feeling that the vegetarian main courses were same-old, same-old. The next one however, aimed to give that thought a 360° turn. The Khandahari Gucchi Subz (yes, we ate some more morels – eat your heart out!) cooked in a saffron flavoured curry was definitely something different. While one diner claimed it was slightly sweet for her liking, I think the mild sweetness absolutely compliments the earthy taste of the morels. My only grouse here is that I like to treat my morels special – combining it with other vegetables (including peas) in a gravy, somehow dims their awesomeness. The final vegetarian main course was the Dal Makhni. Well…it was AWESOME. I just died and went to heaven. One bite of this and your cholesterol will soar to a 400, but trust me it is worth every single calorie. I will go back to Riwaz one day, order just the Dal Makhni and some roti and sit back and experience bliss. 
 


The non-Vegetarian Main courses were the stars of the evening. The Nalli Ghostalready had me salivating when it arrived. A famous dish from the “Dastarkhan” of Awadh, it is a lamb Qorma marinated with spices and herbs, cooked on dum. The richness of the dish can be attributed to the Nalli or the marrow and it’s the same thing that makes the gravy silky and glossy as well. Lamb is a very popular meat in the frontier province and is given pride of place in their preparations. The Baluchi Raan definitely deserved pride of place on our table. A whole leg of lamb marinated overnight in spices and nuts and cooked slowly over a tandoor. I was disappointed when it arrived in a shredded form and not the whole leg (ok, I know that was being extremely greedy) but the gold varak (gold leaf) garnish somehow made up for it. (Yes, I’m a sucker for pimping it up!).  We tried the gravies with an assortment of breads – Rogani Naan, Khasta Roti, Bharwan Aloo Pyaaz da Kulcha and Bakarkhani. The Bakarkhani was something I had never tried before and it completely took me by surprise. It’s almost like an Indian Foccacia – baked leveaned bread made with refined flour but studded with raisins, almonds and saffron instead of olives and rosemary. If you go there – it’s a must try.

The surprise package of the evening arrived – the Lobster Masala. This one had me excited and confused at the same time. Was this traditional fare? Was Lobster even used in frontier cooking? Where did they even source fresh Lobster in the mountains? Chef Ramandeep came to the rescue. The base or the recipe for the gravy is a traditional one sourced from the Punjab region where they generally use fish in the preparation. Chef decided to take it up a notch and use a fancy Lobster in its place. Well, after a couple of bites, I’m not complaining!

Because of the number of dishes we had to try, I restricted myself to tasting portions of each. But even then I was bursting at the seams. So when the biriyani’s and the pulaos arrived I was ready to call it quits. But try I did, because they were serving Yakhni Pulao with Burani raita! Borrowing from their menu “Yakhani is a lamb broth that is believed to have originated in Persia and introduced to India by the Mughals. Basmati rice is cooked in a thick lamb broth made by using whole garam masala, desi ghee and yoghurt”. The lamb was perfectly cooked and subtly flavoured and I couldn’t help marvel at how a good broth can transform a dish.
The Motia Pulao takes getting used to, but is again something that was completely new to me. Cottage cheese dumplings mixed with khoya are deep fried and then cooked with saffron laced basmati rice. This is finally garnished with dried fruit and nuts. This was very reminiscent of the sweet Kashmiri pulaos and I made a mental note to research it further. Personally I found the deep fried cottage-cheese-khoya dumplings too heavy and rich but the sweet loving Bengali on the table had no complaints.

We decided to forgo the desserts. Gotcha! No, we ate them all! And this is where I give Riwaz a 100%. The Dark chocolate layered cake with Star Anise is such a tough combination to get right, but this cake rocked it! Subtle hints of star anise percolated the pastry and we kept going back to taste this unique flavor again and again. The homemade Rose Ice Cream though seemingly disparate complimented the cake. But the star of the platter was definitely the Warm Belgian Milk Chocolate and Mango Pudding. Essentially a lava cake, it’s perfectly cooked chocolate top gave way to a warm gooey pudding center. Mango, my friends – that’s what I tasted. Warm, decadent  and everything that reminds me of an Indian Summer. Sigh! It…was…divine.


They bought a Soan Papdi flavoured Kulfi dressed with some more gold leaf (ritzy :P) and a Saffron baked Yoghurt with frosted nuts and fresh fruit. The poor things didn’t stand a chance compared to their predecessors. Maybe if they were served first, or maybe if they didn’t have to compete with chocolate, or maybe if they had just been served on a different day where I didn’t fall for the Mango pudding … we’ll never know.
The night ended with us contemplating on whether we wanted to pack the Dal Makhni home. (It was THAT good.) But we decided to save it for another day of sheer indulgence. A stylish platter of four silver cups arrived – ‘mouth fresheners’ they casually claimed and watched in glee as we oohed and aahd about the ingenuity of it all. Saunf flavored crackers, chocolate and jasmine bites and Pear jujubes completed the experience. If this elaborate review of all the awesomeness on offer doesn’t entice you to go to Riwaz – I have to conclude that you have a heart of stone (or you’re just an ascetic who’s shunned worldly pleasures). The restaurant is open all days of the week only for dinner.
RIWAZ
The Ritz-Carlton, Bangalore
99, Residency Road,
Bangalore – 560025
Ph: 080 4914 8000
Parking: Valet Available
Cost: Rs.3800/-++ for a meal for two